There are so many we could list, some are goals, some are aspirations, but one we know everyone who reads our blog can relate to is this…
wishing you all a wonderful start to the New Year!
Layla & Josh
Between the Sheets Blog - life's little luxuries, like BTS lingerie & loungewear, play in style
by btslingerie // Leave a Comment
There are so many we could list, some are goals, some are aspirations, but one we know everyone who reads our blog can relate to is this…
wishing you all a wonderful start to the New Year!
Layla & Josh
by btslingerie // Leave a Comment
Hey everyone. Here is the third in my ongoing series on sustainable fashion and the connections between fashion and the environment. For those of you just joining the conversation catch up on Part 1 and Part 2. When I’m not working on BTS with Layla I have a day job working as an environmental lawyer. This ongoing series of posts focuses on sustainability in fashion and why supporting fair wages and made in the USA fashion is so important. These topics are near and dear to Layla and I and bring together my BTS and environmental lawyer worlds. Join in the conversation in the comments or make suggestions for future posts on sustainable manufacturing and fashion. Hope you enjoy!
What is the true cost of a T-shirt, the cost of the bargain of fast fashion? Part 1 of this series explored the environmental impact of the apparel industry and cheaply produced throw-away garments. In this third installment the focus will shift to another hidden cost of fast fashion, the human cost. When companies move garment production overseas in search of cheap labor, the cost is often born out in wages that are not enough to live on, deplorable working conditions, and harsh worker treatment.
At its most basic level the cost of any product breaks down to the cost of raw materials and the cost of labor to transform the raw materials into the final product (this sets aside the cost of marketing, research and development, etc.).
In many cases companies may not have very much control over the cost of raw materials, but do have a choice over how much they pay their workers and the conditions at the factory where the product is made. The drive to keep labor costs down has forced many mass-market apparel companies (and even some smaller companies) to shift their labor overseas or in some cases move their production around the globe from country to country in order to keep prices low and profits high.
In many overseas countries the laws do not provide the same type of protection for garment industry workers that we have here in the US and sweatshop conditions, and child labor are common. A recent report from the UK organization Labour Behind the Label found that many factories in India supplying leading UK retail chains had deplorable working conditions. They described workers as living “in a ‘climate of fear’ characterized by poverty wages, violence and denial of basic rights…”
The TV series “Blood Sweat & T-Shirts” is an eye opening look into the garment factories (and cotton fields, and mills) of India. In the show privileged fast-fashion lovers from the UK are taken to work in the factories and fields and see the conditions for themselves. Workers in India leave their families for months at a time to toil for meager pay in the fields, the cotton mills, and in factories in the slums. The worst factories are dingy, dark, and hot. Workers are almost like slaves-working for long hours constantly fearing for their health and safety and earning nothing close to a living-wage.
Even though the use of sweatshops primarily happens overseas there have been a few high profile cases of US sweatshops being used for well known fast fashion brands. What these instances have in common with foreign abuses is a desire to produce cheap mass-market apparel and maximize profits. In a recent article in business week about the rapid rise of Forever 21-this fast fashion juggernaut’s labor history was brought to light.Although much of Forever 21’s clothing is now made overseas at one point a substantial amount of their manufacturing took place in LA. In 2001 a lawsuit was filed on behalf of workers at a Forever 21 sewing contractor, alleging sweatshop conditions. The case was settled for 4 million, with Forever 21 claiming ignorance of the conditions at the factory. The ridiculous nature of this claim was summed up perfectly by the lawyer who represented the workers.
“It’s impossible to claim ignorance when the problem is so rampant,” said Attorney Julie Su. “Forever 21 is not a victim of the industry. They create and demand these conditions. They squeeze their suppliers and make it necessary for them to get things done as quickly and cheaply as possible, no matter what the cost to the workers.” The documentary “Made in LA” chronicles the fight that these workers went through to expose Forever 21 and win fare wages and humane working conditions for themselves and their fellow workers.
While Forever 21 is undoubtedly not the only apparel company to be accused of using sweatshop labor in the US, because of our labor laws and government crack downs there are far fewer sweatshops in this country. In New York, one of the major center’s for garment manufacturing in the US, there is a sweatshop task force that all manufactures must register for. For a company like Between the Sheets this means that if we had employees we would need to have workers compensation and disability insurance and provide proof of proper insurance to the labor task force. We are also required to only work with contractors who are registered.
Despite the movement of garment industry jobs overseas there are still companies who keep their manufacturing in the US and do their production in an ethical way. In the lingerie world Hanky Panky is a notable one. Fair wages, humane working conditions, and supporting/rebuilding the local economy are all reasons to support these companies who are keeping the US garment industry alive.
The take away is that it is important to care where your clothing comes from. As consumers we vote with our wallets and this vote can change the world. Start by supporting local businesses-ones who are nimble and can make a quality product here in the US at a fair price, while creating local jobs and supporting fair wages. If you do buy clothing from a fast fashion chain–consider only buying from stores with a stated corporate policy against sweatshops and a history of actually following that policy. The truth is that consumer voice and buying power changes corporate behavior. When consumers started demanding green products Walmart recognized a business opportunity and became a leader in sustainability. By the same token if enough consumers demand “fair trade” clothing that is made by workers paid a living wage (or made in the US) this could change the way that big apparel companies do business.
by btslingerie // Leave a Comment
A gritty, beautiful, birthplace of dreams, Coney Island sits in the furthest reaches of Brooklyn on the Atlantic Ocean. Like a Siren, there is something alluring about this small ribbon of sand that has called to New Yorkers since the 1800s. In many ways the rise and fall and rise and fall of Coney Island is a story of the American Dream and the promise of the great city of New York. If you board the N train where it begins in Astoria, the bustling neighborhood in Queens that Layla and I, and Between the Sheets call home, and travel through the heart of Manhattan, across the East River on the Manhattan Bridge, through Gowanus and Sunset Park, through Fort Hamilton and Gravesend to Stillwell Avenue where the rails meet the sand, you have reached Coney Island.
Today Coney Island is an odd mix of amusements, arcades, abandoned buildings and vacant lots: home of the annual mermaid parade, a freak show, a baseball stadium, and Nathan’s Famous (home of the annual hot dog eating contest), thrown in for good measure. Still reminders of Coney’s former glory and of the American Dream pulse just beneath the surface.
Between the Sheets is connected to Coney Island in more ways than sharing opposite ends of a subway line. The magic and history of Coney Island is an embodiment of the American dream, elegant, brash, never afraid to reinvent itself in the face of change. Something we here at Between the Sheers aspire to as we’ve set out to build a thriving “made in the USA” business out of the ashes of the economic crash. The choice to set our Spring/Summer 2011 photoshoot at Coney Island was inspired by the magic of Coney’s rich history–tapping into the heart of New York and America.
An encyclopedia could be written about the history Coney Island. From upscale beach resort in the 1800’s to home of four amusement parks in the early 1900’s (at the time the largest amusement area in the United States).
Beginning after the Civil War Coney Island became a major resort destination as transportation to the beach was built and Manhattanites looked for a vacation spot within a few hours of the City. Luxurious hotels where built on the sandy beaches and millions of visitors packed Coney Island every summer.
Hotels such as the Manhattan Beach, the Oriental, and the Brighton Beach featured lavish ballrooms, hundreds of guest rooms, and were the epitome of luxury.
With the building of the railroads that would eventually become today’s subway lines millions thronged to Coney Island. As vacationing New Yorkers flocked to the beach the upscale resort quality of Coney Island transformed to one of amusements, sideshows, and entertainment for the masses. Coney Island in many ways was the birthplace of the American tradition of Amusement parks, thrill rides, and circus entertainment. Coney Island was a playland for New Yorker’s of all ages. On a hot summer day the beaches would be packed so that you could barely see the sand. Like a glittering jewel the amusement parks would light up with thousands of twinkling little lights every night.
Since its glory days in the early 20th century Coney Island has fallen on hard times. The classic beauty of the architecture, the glamour, and the spectacle have declined. All of the original resort hotels have fallen victim to time and redevelopment. The amusements, theaters, and shows that were once a jewels on the ocean have also fallen victim to the wrecking ball. The Cyclone rollercoaster and Wonderwheel are all that remain of this time. They are reminders of the faded glory and of the glamour and opulence that once defined this far-flung Brooklyn community.
The BTS photoshoot took place during another time of great transition for Coney Island. Coney’s last great amusement park, Astroland had closed, after operating since the 1960’s. 2010 saw the first season of the new Luna Park amusement park, the first new major amusement park in decades and a re-imagining of one of Coney Island’s golden era parks. A glittering vision of Vegas-style luxury hotels, bigger amusement parks, and luxury condos is now being considered for Coney. Will this return the area to a modern version of its former glory or erase what is left of the beach’s history? Only time will tell.
No matter how Coney Island is reborn the history and vintage glamour will always remain below the surface. This classic Americana was a constant inspiration while we worked to put together our photoshooot. Months after our Coney Island trip we continue to be inspired by the spirit of reinvention and larger-than-life dreams that are part of the fabric of America and Coney Island’s history. These are the values that drive and inspire us as Between the Sheets continues to grow and evolve.
click to see Between the Sheets Collection – Spring/Summer 2011 lookbook shot in Coney Island
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